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The calculation method about circumference ence ease of bust dart and bust dart angle (Метод вычисления прибавки к обхвату груди и


The calculation method about circumference ence ease of bust dart and bust dart angle (Метод вычисления прибавки к обхвату груди и раствора нагрудной вытачки)

Объектом исследования была форма грудной клетки женских фигур базового размера 160/84A для совершенствования проектирования нагрудных вытачек. В работе были использованы данные китайского стандарта GB/T16160-2008 Parts and Methods of Clothing Anthropometric, GB/T1335.2-2008 Size Designation.

Based on the method that the circumference ease of waist dart subtracts waist line from bust line, so, the bodice circumference ease of bust dart subtracts lower bust line from

bust line, and a single circumference ease of bust dart : C = 1- = ' 1-71,7 = 5.39 cm аs

2 2

shown in fig. 1.

PW Minim in М*ЦШ1(ВД Д1(шдс

E [uiullC I4j.f IS4.7 Ifil.Lfi

Wdicln is.; Tt.fi. J&(g

Higher bust line ms «

Butt lint 6S.S V/.i 82.51

Lows htui Jiitc ».i «.J

Fig. 1. Longitudinal section of chest Fig. 2. Statistical data

Women's breasts are similar to cones, a circular piece of fabric has to clear one dart away, then a cone to form and transformed from planar to three-dimensional. The higher the cone, the larger the angle to remove; on the contrary, the smaller the angle. So, the bust dart makes an immediate impact on the three-dimensional form of women's breasts.

Assuming that cone angle a is known and can be seen from FIG.3

S=2nr V r=Rsin- Л S=2nRsin- ® It is observed from an expanded view of circular sector

S=2nR—

360°

From®: - ■ = sin- G = sin - * 360 °

360° 2 2

So, the bust 360°-£ 360°-sinf*360°

dart angle = - = ■ 2 ■

22 ®

Observing the cross section and longitudinal section, we can draw a conclusion :Z AIB shows the degree of breast's outward expansion, the larger the angle, the greater the outward expansion; and ZFAE, ZGAH reflect the fullness of breast, the larger the angle, the smaller the chest bump and the smaller the angle of bust dart; The lager the ZGAH, the larger the fullness of breast and the larger the angle of bust dart.

Unable to measure the angles of breast by using common measuring tool, we can facilitate extraction of data from Polyworlcs here, the data includes some angles: ZAFE, Z AEF, ZEAF, ZAGH ZGAH ZGHA4 ZAIB, ZIAB4 ZIBA [2]

As shown in fig. 5, ZGAH, the average of Za= 132.38°,for the convenience of calculation, we adopt 130° . In combination with formula , P=sin65*360°“0.9*360°“324°, so, the angle of bust dart = 360 -324 = 18°

Conclusion

In order to prove the rationality of this calculation method, we can draw a comparison with data of the new Japanese cultural prototype: C=5.24cm, bust dart angle = (B/4-2.5) ° = 18.5° [3] . (As shown in figure 6). And we will find that there is not much discrepancy between them. So, it is a correct calculation method.

This research is afforded from Hubei province education office science and research subject D20121704.

REFERENCE

[1] Liu, B.F. Continuity research of the donghua basic block [D]. Shanghai: Dong Hua University, 2010(12): 76

[2] Liu, B.F. Continuity research of the donghua basic block [D]. Shanghai: Dong Hua University, 2010(12): 82

[3] Sanji, M.Z.Z. The study of silhouette [M]. Tokyo: Bunka Women's University, 2002: 176


GENG HUANYU (Institute of Clothing, Wuhan Textile University, Китай)





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