Research about breast shape orien ted to bra design (Изучение формы грудных желез для проектирования бюстгальтеров

Research about breast shape orien ted to bra design (Изучение формы грудных желез для проектирования бюстгальтеров)

Abstract : Форма грудных желез является важным фактором, влияющим на соразмерность и комфортность бюстгальтеров. Для фигур, у которых при равенстве обхватов груди третьего и четвертого, могут различаться выступ грудных желез, ширина груди, проекционные параметры и др. С помощью бесконтактных трехмерных измерений и специального программного обеспечения были проведены измерения женских фигур, а результаты обработаны для получения наиболее характерных признаков и разработки.

Ключевые слова : форма грудных желез; трехмерные измерения; ширина груди

It is closely related to the pattern-design of bra and breast shape,so is necessary to analyse the breast characteristics. The appearance of the female breast shape can be roughly with the height, width, orientation and location to describe, but it is hard to be precise. It generally divided into cone, hemispherical, disc, drooping shape across the side of the human chest.

[1] as shown in picture 1:

Picture 1 Breast shapes

In general women's breast shape affects the bra shape classification. In the us/UK usually expressed in 30,32, 34, 36, etc; In Europe/Japan usually expressed in 65, 70, 75, 80, etc; In our country, the size of the bra reference to Japan. Of course, there are also the same with the Anglo-American methods. In different ways to mark A, B, C, D have different meanings. Bra is based on underbust, The representing method is generally 65A,70A,70B,75C,80D etc. [1] At present the type and size of bra is used to determine by breast circumference, underbust and the difference between them. But this method is not accurate,many consumers actually wear the right bra and calculated shape is not consistent. Such as the breast is the same, we could find the cross section that some look thick round shape and somes are flat. As shown in picture2.

Through 3 D body scanner to scan to the human body, according to the main factors influencing the breast shape,and select some for analysis. Breast circumference, underbust, BP's distance and the distance between arranged with the left or right breast, diameter at breast height width, diameter at breast height thick are measured.

Diameter ratio of the width and diameter thick. Through the cross-section it can be seen that the breasts have round thick type and flat type.

Table 1

Breast variable measurement data analysis

variable Sample number Maximum Minimum Average

Diameter at breast height width/ thick 195 1.64 1.18 1.39

FNP to BP 195 26.4 14.9 21.2

Table 2

K—means cluster analysis result

Variable clustering center clustering interval

categories 1 2 3 1 2 3

BP distance 16.8 19.6 18.2 18.2

FNP-BP 18.7 21.7 20.22 20.22

Diameter at breast height width/ thick 1.5057 1.2922 1.3967 1.448 1.448~1.337 1.337

Table 3

Classification of breast shape

Diameter breast height / thick 1.448 1.448 ~1.337 1.337

Classification flat symmetry round

thick

FNP-BP 20.22 20.22

Classification drooping firm type

BP distance 18.2 18.2

Classification wide gather

From Table1 ,the width/diameter at breast height diameter thick, the minimum value of 1.1, close to 1, then the woman's breasts are thick type. The maximum value of 1.64, that ratio is about 3:2, the woman's body is flat. The results of the analysis to see table2 and 3,then the breast could divide into round thick,flat type, symmetry type.

It can use FNP to BP's distance and BP 's distance the two variables to describe. Through FNP to BP's distance reflect female prolapsed and high stiffness, BP's distance reflects female breast outside of width and gather together. By extracting the characteristic variables, FNP to BP's distance and spacing distance is reflect the drooping, gathered. 1) from FNP to BP, if the distance become greater the lower of breast forceful; 2) the BP's distance become smaller the breast become gathered. The results of the analysis to see table2 and 3.

In this paper, use of non-contact 3D body scanner for woman breast size measurement and analysis. According to the two main factors affecting the breast shape and the analysis of experimental data, then the breast could divide into round thick-firm-wide, round thick- firm- gathered,round thick-drooping- gathered, round thick- drooping-wide, flat- firm- wide, flat -firm- gathered, flat-drooping-gathered, flat—drooping-wide, symmetry- firm-wide, symmetry - firm- gathered, symmetry- drooping - gathered, symmetry—drooping- wide.

This research is afforded from Hubei province education office science and research subject. The number of this subject is D20121704.

REFERENCES:

[1] Xing Baoan. Underwear of China's shirt[M] . Beijing: China textile press, 1997.

[2] Luo Ying. Close fashion, underwear design [M]. Beijing: China textile publishing house,1999

[3] wang hua-e. Female body segment and category prototype based on MTM research [D]. Shanghai; Donghua University, 2004.

[4] Li Mingju. Based on the analysis of the female body underwear structure composition and the digital design research [D]. Shanghai: Donghua University, 2001.

УДК 687.016

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