The comparison of two cultural women garment prototype (Сравнение двух видов базовых конструкций женской одежды

The comparison of two cultural women garment prototype (Сравнение двух видов базовых конструкций женской одежды)

Абстракт : Проведен анализ двух базовых конструкций шестой и восьмой гене-рации для японской женской одежды. Установлено, что прототип восьмого типа точнее соответствует размерным признакам современных фигур, а потому его возможно ис-пользовать для проектирования одежды.

Ключевые слова: женская одежда, базовые конструкции, сравнительный анализ

Prototype cartography due to its scientific and practicability are widely used in the industry. To grasp the new trend of its development and change, to learn and in practical application, help to improve the ability of the model design of garment industry.In this paper, will compare the sixth and eighth generations of Japanese cultural garment prototype on the structure principle and the effect of modeling. Analysis of the pros and cons, and through experiment verification, giving some preliminary views on the eighth prototype in the application of model design and promotion.

Using the standard body size of 160/84A, and according to the structure drawing method of the sixth and eighth generation Japanese cultural garment prototype to map the prototype structure diagrams, as shown in figure 1 and figure 2. Using size as follows: chest B=84cm,waist W=66cm, Back length =38cm.

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figure 1 The sixth garment prototype figure 2 The eighth garment prototype

According to the calculation formula of two generation prototype, get the dimension datarelated parts, and then compare. The results are shown in Table 1.

Table 1

comparative

analysis

increase

decreased more

decreased

slightly

increase more increase more No obvious change increase more increase more

decreased

slightly

increase more

decreased

slightly

decreased

slightly

No obvious

change

No obvious

change

decreased

slightly

increased

slightly

decreased

slightly

No obvious

change

Using standard 160/84A naked person table, select the appropriate white fabric, sewing a prototype of clothing to compare.. The prototype samples obtained from the front and back, and the side of the vertical angle take the map. As the following diagram:

From the above, the eighth generation of prototype can be analyzed and compared the sixth generation of prototype, can get that the eighth generation of prototype of relaxation of the bust increased 2 cm, but the actual bust line reduced 1.1 cm.the front of the pattern is more big, AL(FCL-BCL) increase obviously.BP point position also fell, the chest width and back width smaller at the same time, but back width change is bigger, and still maintain the back width is greater than the width of the chest. front Shoulder drop is bigger than back Shoulder drop, contrary to the sixth generation prototype, back width and chest width same decreases, front armhole depth extended. From the figure 3 and 4,the eighth prototype of clothing are more fitting, do not feel obvious ease, modeling is beautiful, especially in the waist, the waist line and person table waist line basically matching. the parts of chest appears plump, fruity. Although the eighth generation prototype drawing trend complicated, but its elaborate set dart structure, in the clothing structure design will be more convenient, has been very close to the practical suit and broad application prospect. The eighth generation of prototype structure design conforms to the modern female body shape, better performance characteristics of the female body curves. Each part of a design more reasonable, more suitable for human body movement, Also consider the industry in the process of pushing plate coefficient setting appropriate. Considering together, the eighth generation of prototype is more fit than the sixth generation of prototype in Practical application.

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