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Thoughts and improvements on gb of womens wear (Направления совершенствования стандартов для женской одежды


Thoughts and improvements on gb of womens wear (Направления совершенствования стандартов для женской одежды)

Абстракт: Исследованы структура и содержание китайского стандарта по женской одежде (GB/T 1335.2-2008), проанализированы условия его применения и основные проблемы, возникающие при измерении некоторых дополнительных размеров одежды, показана возможность использования вспомогательных и контрольных признаков для измерения отдельных участков одежды. Полученные результаты позволят усо-вершенствовать проанализированный стандарт.

Ключевые слова: женская одежда; размерные стандарты; дополнительные из-мерения, размеры одежды

Standard of garment (GB/T1334) is an important basis for the main size specifications in production of the garment industry design making models changing size and selling, it has a certain accuracy and universality. Our national standard of garment has been made for many years but it was formally popularized since 1992. It includes the standard for men, women and kids. It is based on large human body measurements and the statistical analysis of data and it was revised every few years. Our country has revised the national standard for 3 times (1992.1998.2008), however, those standards are still informative instead of normative and it's very flexible for the clothing enterprises to execute in production. The newest revised standard of garment (GB/T 1335.2-2008) was carried out in 2008. The setting of the size series of the garment means using the middle sizes of every body types as the center and increasing or decreasing progressively from both sides. The specification is divide into Y A B C four kinds of code and each kind represents a range for the body type. The design of allowance is decided by the designer based on parameter and design requirements. Every 5 cm is a bracket in height, chest and waist circumference are divided every 4cm and 2cm and they combine 5.4 series and 5.2 series. Upper outer garment usually use 5.4 series while lower garment usually use 5.2 series.

Since 2000, garment in the markets for selling must use CM as unit to mark the size due to the mandatory provisions of our country, but the enforcement isn't enough, so companies may use their own mark instead of the national standard or just use some marks at will which doesn't even match the size of the cloth. So these marks used by clothing enterprises can't adapt the changing demands and there are lots of problems in it.

(1) Data of the size have changed a lot: 2008 standard mainly revised the normative English name, reference documents and it also adds 180 size into size types, adds 180 size's control position into appendix. In fact, body types have changed a lot such as heights chest and waist circumference. Many females have same height but their chest and waist circumferences are totally different or they have the same chest and waist circumferences but their heights are different.

(2) The classifications of the specification and body types are general: the applicable users of the standard of women's wear: age 13- 60. It's a huge span so it needs a specific classification. It's unreasonable to mix the teenagers with the elders. According to the 2010th adult physique monitoring report, the indexes of females' heights* weights* chest and waist circumferences have improved, it's range is about 0.1%~8.0% and females in different pro-fessions have different body types. Officials* managers* business women* and service personals are tall, workers are strong, farmers are slim.

(3) Expresses of the sizes are not strict enough: GB/T 1335 sets the textiles and garment including exports to domestic sales and imports which are sold in Chinese markets should have the marks which meet the national and professional standard. Garment should be marked in national standard. There are still lots of brands use S* M* L* XL or the number 27* 28 * 29* 30 or the inch which really make consumers confused, even experts can't make sure what does these mean.

(4) Revision of the standard of women's wear should be in line with international con-ventions: our standard should keep pace with the times, make solutions to the new conditions on the basic standard. Chinese standard needs to learn from other countries such as “back length” from Japan and the “low waist circumference” (5cm under the waist) from England.

It's hard for consumers to buy the right clothes mainly because the standard size we have is not enough, we need to change 4 types made by our country into 7 types: Y* YA* A

* AB* B* BC* C, each means thin* lean* standard* a little fat* fat* a little obesity* obesity. The producers should make more types too. For example they can use 160/84Y* 160/84A* 160/84B* 160/84C and so on.

Making more types must cause some problems to the producers but this is the trend of development.

The standard of size is made for design* produce and consume, it must fit the re-quirements of human body as much as possible. So, height and chest and waist circumference are not enough, we still need more data from different parts. Height, cervical height, sitting cervical height, total arm length, waist height all should be took into consideration and also chest, waist and arm circumferences, length of sleeves, shoulder length and outside length should increase or decrease based on the standard. Region, material, style, fashion and design should all get changed based on the standard. We need to make allowance in design in order to let people move more comfortably. According to the human engineering research results, we need to make 1.6 cm allowance for upper outer garment and 1.3 cm allowance for lower garments and they are the basic value for allowance. If we want to design different thickness inside dress and make body conforming fit or half body conforming fit, we need to add thickness measurement and ornamental allowance. The formula of the allowance is: clothes allowance= basic allowance thickness measurement ornamental allowance; total allowance= 2p* clothes allowance. In general, allowance plays an important role in design. We must base on the style and use scientific analysis to make the perfect allowance.

We should use intermediate in design and making model as the center and shift the grad from all directions with some fixed value to form specification series. The specification of the intermediate is essential because it covers the most conditions in the crowd. The differences in regions and sales model should be taken into consideration when we want to make sure the intermediate. Dividing the shape and size of human body into brackets is called size series. In standard we divide height every 5 cm, upper outer garment every 4 and 3 cm, lower garment every 4,3 and 2 cm; we usually call them 5.4 series, 5.3 series, 5.2 series. Size series are widely used in changing the size of the model. We usually use 5.4 series, 5.3 series for upper outer garment and 5.4 series, 5.3 series, 5.2 series in lower garment. When we are changing the model, if it's 4th length of the body we hope to use 4 cm as a chest circumference grade, if it's 3rd we hope to use 3 cm as a chest circumference grade. In this way, when we are changing size every grade is 1 cm, it's convenient for us to calculate and change.

Our country should build a complete data base about the size of our bodies for analyzing and administrating. At the same time, updating the data should be enhanced and we should do regular measurement. When consumers input their data, we can show them the best size for them. Intelligent service can make consumers more satisfied and provide convenience to so many enterprises. Nowadays, experts are preparing the intelligent service card based on the data, they want to provide us a IC card which records our own size, we only need to swiping the card when we want to buy some clothes and then the computers can show us the best choice for us.

REFERENCE

[1] Huang Can art. The national standards of clothing shape optimization study [J]. China QianJian, 2009 (2).


XUEYUN ZHANG, ANHUA ZHONG (Wuhan Textile University, Китай)





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