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Comparison of blouse pattern grading by the formula and experience (Сравнение теоретической и экспериментальной техники градации

Comparison of blouse pattern grading by the formula and experience (Сравнение теоретической и экспериментальной техники градации блузок)

Абстракт: Параллельно с развитием технологии САПР актуальным остается тех-нология автоматической градации чертежей деталей одежды. Чтобы разработать тех-нологию автоматической градации, необходимо разработать правила расчета величин приращений как ключевых моментов. Основываясь на сравнении эмпирических величин приращений с результатами теоретических расчетов, эта статья исследует корректность технологии автоматической градации.

Ключевые слова : одежда, САПР, чертежи; автоматическая градация At present, most CAD systems use formulas to calculate the pattern grading value. Because by the formulas a group of grading rule is only applicable to a particular garment pattern, the efficiency is very low. In this paper two grading results from formula method and experience of different style blouse patterns were compared and analyzed.

Body size scope was limited to 150 / 76A, 155 / 80A, 165 / 84A, 170 / 88A, 175 / 92A and the 160 / 84A size was the middle size. We chose the blouse patterns for loose type, body type and tight type as the experiment samples. when grading we put back width line as the vertical coordinate, bust line as abscissa in front pattern; back midline line as the vertical coordinate and bust line as abscissa in back pattern.

When grading according to the pattern making formula, we need to calculate the grading value for each key junction point, so the grading values are always needed calculate when pattern changed, while the empirical value can be used directly. The results showed that the patterns graded by formulas coincided with the patterns we made by the dimensional requirements. But comparison of the patterns we made by the dimensional requirements the patterns made by the empirical values changed a little with the shoulder slope which is an important line to keep the cloth shape unchanged in pattern showed consistent.

From the results of the research, patterns graded according to the pattern making formula are more rigorous and scientific than grading by the empirical value. When the number of patterns in the series is not too big, both of the two ways can meet the demand of garment industrial production. When used in the computer automatic grading, we also need to consider the programming needs and other conditions.


[1] Yu Guoxing. Pattern Making in Garment Industry Production [M]. Shanghai: Donghua University Press, 2011, 12

[2] Hu Yue. Practical Manual for Fashion design and Pattern Making of Shirt [M]. Shanghai: Donghua University Press, 2008, 11

[3] Wang Hailiang, Zhou Bangzhen. Garment Pattern Making and Grading technology [M]. Beijing: Chinese Textile Press, 1999, 10.

YUQIN HU, MENG XU, ANHUA ZHONG (Wuhan Textile University, Китай)